Hollywood wasn’t big enough for Fern Kaewtathip and Noree Pla. The talented Thai-American chef-partners already built hits with Luv2Eat Thai Bistro and Crying Tiger and recently added Noree Thai on Beverly nearby in Mid-City. This “Innovator of Thai Delicacies” is a small, but formidable restaurant with a wall of copper leaves and stems and a ceiling hung with three gold chandeliers. Noree Thai on Beverly is the duo’s nicest restaurant, with plenty of exclusive dishes.

Fried Fish Noree Thai Herb (MP) features a a choice of whole fish: wild rock cod, tilapia, and pollock. Each fish is expertly fried until crispy and prepared three different possible ways: with ground pork and ginger, sweet and sour sauce, or green beans with chiles. I opted for rock cod, which features flame red skin and flaky white meat, the aforementioned pork and ginger, and additional support from red bell pepper strips, crunchy wood ear mushrooms, scallions, and fiery green chiles. An array of flavors, colors, and textures arrived in waves and called for steamed white rice to get relief.