Mush Bakery resides across Sunset Boulevard from Jitlada.
Fresh-baked Middle Eastern flatbreads have been a staple of Little Armenia since the mid ’80s, when bakeries like Arax and Sasoun first fired up their massive ovens. Now the neighborhood, located between Hollywood and Los Feliz, has seen the rise of a new crop of flatbread practitioners, none better than >Mush Bakery, which lawyer Serop Agadzhanyan opened in early 2009.
Agadzhanyan wasn’t there during my visits. An employee said the owner’s from Syria, though his bakery is named for a town built by Armenian king Mushig that currently resides in eastern Turkey.
A colorful mural, framed by “stones” and a dried pomegranate tree, depicts traditional bread baking in the old country, including a waterfall of sifted flour and a stone oven called a taron that’s built into the ground.
Mush Bakery’s Old World charm extends to a menu that’s imprinted on wood boards.
Flatbreads rest on trays and counters, but don’t sit for long.
Mush’s Lahmajun ($0.90) features crisp edges and a savory topping of spiced ground beef, crushed tomatoes and herbs.
Like most Middle Eastern bakeries in Los Angeles, Mush features two different cheese pies. Their spicy cheese beorek ($3) incorporates molten Cacique cheese, chilies and herbs, uniting spicy and salty elements in crisp pastry.
Mush also makes a triangular cheese beorek ($1.50) that tastes sweeter.
Spinach beorek ($1.50), which looks identical from the outside, features a chile-flecked filling of cooked spinach and onions.
Meat Beorek ($2.50) has crimped edges, crispy exterior, and contains juicy, well-spiced ground beef.
Everything at Mush Bakery is solid except for Maneishe ($1) that had the texture of dry focaccia and featured a heavy application of olive oil and za’atar, the savory Middle Eastern spice mixture that includes oregano, sumac, thyme and sesame seeds.
Tahini Bread ($1.25) is Mush Bakery’s only sweet offering, and they make an especially good version. The sesame-strong disc is typically crispy, but at Mush, it’s pull-apart, pastry-like and richer than other tahini breads around town.
Mush, Arax and Sasoun all have their strengths, and while the longtime bakeries may be better overall, Mush is particularly notable for their Meat Beorek and Tahini Bread.