La Huesuda Tacos La Costilla Taco

Taco Los Angeles

Craft breweries rarely serve food, and since food has been known to keep people in front of pints longer, they provide a platform for food trucks and chefs who set up stands to sell their specialties. Certain vendors have become synonymous with breweries, including Bartz Barbecue (my favorite BBQ in L.A.) and promising newcomer La Huesuda Tacos.

La Huesuda Tacos is the joint effort of Denice Mendez and chef Pablo Ricardo Vega, who previously worked for Ricardo Zarate and Josh Drew at the late great Picca. The duo rotates between L.A. area breweries like Brouwerij West, Los Angeles Ale Works, and Mt. Lowe Brewing Company (check their website Events page for updated dates). The name translates from Spanish as “the bony one” and sports a stylish skeleton logo, but their tacos are anything but paltry.

Mendez presses corn tortillas to order, which Vega fills with five different fillings, plus a rotating special. I was particularly impressed with La Costilla ($5) pork ribs slow-braised in a guajillo, morito, tomato, and onion salsa. The fire-red meat’s chopped, griddled until crusty, topped with sweet pineapple, lashed with chile de arbol aioli, and capped with shaved scallions. Other La Huesuda tacos receive the same level of care, but none can match La Costilla’s intensity of flavor.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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