The house salad should have given it away, or maybe the fact that a second Afghan restaurant served pizza, but for some reason, it took a post-meal chat with owner Mohammed Yasin Safdari to determine that a connection existed with the only other Afghan restaurant I’d encountered in the San Fernando Valley: Chopan Kebab House. Safdari is a Kabul native who operated Morigi’s Khyber in the Chopan space for seven-and-a-half years before opening Khybar in late 2007. In both cases, the name was inspired by the Khyber Pass, a treacherous route from Afghanistan to Pakistan through the Spin Ghar mountains. Fortunately for diners, the meal is far from foreboding.
The strip mall storefront features tile floors, yellow walls with massive wood clock and a TV in the corner playing Afghan movies and TV shows.
No matter what you order, expect a crisp iceberg lettuce salad with shaved black olives, tomato and cucumber slices, garbanzo beans and herb flecked Italian dressing.
Since carrots and raisins have so much inherent sugar, Qabili Palau was fairly sweet, but the cardamom tinge and the rice’s fluffy, vermicelli-like consistency helped this dish to achieve balance.
Khybar drizzles dumplings with tangy yogurt and scatters chili-like ground beef curry and assorted vegetables, including lima beans, peas and corn kernels. Steamed dumplings can be bland in the wrong hands, but not with Khybar’s tag team of sauces. This was my favorite dish.
Khybar is worth trying due to the sheer rarity of Afghan food in Los Angeles. Also, aside from the Shola Gushti, you should expect fairly light food with bold flavors. Finally, if Afghan flavors aren’t for you, Khybar also makes pizza, a remnant from Morigi Khyber’s time in a former pizzeria.
Blog Comments
A. Budri
December 25, 2010 at 8:20 AM
Some people make qabeli with the dressing (carrots and raisins) mixed with the rice, I prefer it layered generously on top.
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MyLastBite
February 16, 2010 at 2:36 PM
Wow. Beefy goodness! I’ve never had Afghan food, but for some reason I assumed it would be all LAMB (which I don’t love).
Joshua Lurie
February 16, 2010 at 2:38 PM
Khybar actually didn’t have any lamb on the menu. Instead, we OD’d on cow, and in two cases, young cow.
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