At Il Grano in West Los Angeles, chef-owner Sal Marino continues to churn out interesting Italian dishes inspired by seasonal California ingredients in an airy setting. He was born in Los Angeles, but grew up in Naples. Marino was raised in a restaurant family. Brother Mario now runs Marino Ristorante in Hollywood after taking over for father Ciro (better known as Mario) and wife Maria. He recently invited me to lunch after picking produce and herbs from his home garden and shopping at the nearby farmers market and local fish market. Shopping at markets is a regular ritual for him. Marino served a signature crudo with tuna and shaved almonds, Tulare cherry gazpacho, spaghetti with mushrooms, English peas and pancetta, and closed the show with a fish market find.

Marino retreated into the Il Grano kitchen and returned carrying two visually arresting plates, both starring pan-seared beltfish. Crisp-skinned, well seasoned filets from a shimmering silver fish that also goes by cutlassfish joined sautéed Bloomsdale spinach, fried baby artichokes, earthy green garbanzo beans, green garbanzo puree and vivid yellow mustard flower. This dish was a refreshing blast of spring, and a reminder that Il Grano remains vital and relevant in a ever-changing Italian restaurant landscape.