Some L.A. imports take a more humble approach when entering their new environs. Not The Henry, a Phoenix concept from Sam Fox and Fox Restaurant Concepts that recently landed in West Hollywood with a tagline clearly intended to turn heads: “The Greatest Neighborhood Restaurant.” It’s possible to read this motto many ways. Is The Henry simply a restaurant in the “greatest neighborhood” or the pinnacle of neighborhood dining? Either way modesty isn’t on the menu.

The prime real estate in retooled Robertson Plaza could easily become a commissary for the trendy shopping corridor. The Henry’s inviting space features a wraparound patio, handsome dining room, and L-shaped bar with high-top tables, with a bakery and coffee bar by the door. Food spans an eclectic “American” spectrum.

Hank’s Homemade Sparkling Teas & Sodas ($5) don’t call for a detour, but are worth ordering if you’re already at The Henry, or in the neighborhood on a hot day. I enjoyed a crisp, refreshing blend of English cucumber, mint & lime. I’ve also seen tart grapefruit & yuzu and sweeter strawberry & mandarin on the menu.