Gastrologik Emmer Wheat and Smoked Milk Ice Cream (Food of the Week)

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Ice Cream Stockholm

Stockholm Visitors Board and VisitSweden invited media types to Austere, Stockholm native Fredrik Carlström’s design magazine come to life in downtown Los Angeles, to experience progressive cuisine from chefs Anton Bjuhr and Jacob Holmstrüm Gastrologik, a vaunted duo that never even prints a menu at their modern Stockholm restaurant.

Over the course of three hours, Bjuhr and Holmstrüm served 17 tastes of Stockholm that represented the particular place in the Scandinavian world, drawing from surrounding waters to source lichen, algae, and hyper-seasonal, bright orange verdace roe. The Nordic land provided spruce, juniper, dill and more. Better yet, they accomplished this culinary marathon minus the use of a working oven, which apparently gave out before dinner service. I was happy to experience many unfamiliar flavors and textures, and one of the most beguiling bites was of creamy, surprisingly light smoked milk ice cream set on a bed of emmer wheat, which is better known Stateside as farro. The crushed wheat base delivered nutty flavor and gritty texture akin to New England style Indian pudding, but with a unique tangy finish. If this is what Stockholm tastes like, count me in.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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