The Oinkster chef-owner Andre Guerrero and sons Max and Fred riff on seven classic burgers every year for Burger Week at the family’s Eagle Rock restaurant. This year, they took on Wendy’s, Taco Bell and more, and also created originals like the Thrilla From Manila ($10), an innovative Filipino inspired creation that nods to Guerrero heritage. They basically make a burger out of a flattened lumpia, a patty crafted from pork, shrimp and mushrooms that’s wrapped in rice paper and deep fried, creating a crispy shell. They pile it into soft pan de sal with tangy green papaya salad that packs ginger bite. Soy sauce seaps into the bun, and they even add silky pork belly. It’s not like the Thrilla needed more pork, but I sure didn’t mind.
The Guerreros don’t allow photo or online orders during Burger Week, and they don’t allow customers to save tables, which led to lines that wrapped out the door and around the building. In all, it took about 45 minutes to get my burger, and since the patty only weighed five ounces, I instantly regretted not ordering two Thrillas.