Hopefully there’s still room for tiny family run restaurants like Oh Ma Ni as Koreatown continues to evolve. Eun Mi Lee and mother Koo have just five wood tables on a K-Town side street, but Oh Ma Ni is a culinary destination. The family limits decor to light yellow walls lined with photos of dishes. They’ve scratched about a third of the dishes from the menu. What remains is truly comforting.

Dak Kalguksu ($7.50) is a hearty chicken soup featuring house-made noodles. The Korean knife-cut wheat noodles, made on-site, have good chew. They help to fill out a sizable bowl of murky, well-seasoned beef broth, which mom crafts in back for hours upon hours. Hand-torn chicken, rough cut, zucchini and potato, and thin-sliced nori round out the comforting soup’s savory, slurp-worthy profile.