Hopefully there’s still room for tiny family run restaurants like Oh Ma Ni as Koreatown continues to evolve. Eun Mi Lee and mother Koo preside over five wood tables on a K-Town side street. Decor is limited to light yellow walls lined with photos of dishes. They’ve scratched about a third of the dishes from the menu, but what remains is truly comforting, including Dak Kalguksu ($7.50) chicken soup with house-made noodles. The knife-cut wheat noodles, made on-site, have good chew, and help to fill out a sizable bowl of murky, well-seasoned beef broth, which mom crafts in back for hours upon hours. Hand-torn chicken, rough cut, zucchini and potato, and thin-sliced nori round out the hearty soup’s savory, slurp-worthy profile.
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