Considering Miami’s demographics, Caribbean cuisine is normally a pretty good bet. On my most recent trip to the city to see family and friends, I enjoeyd one of my favorite meals at El Bajareque. This Puerto Rican lunch counter dates to 1970, long before the buzz started building in Wynwood, a burgeoning Miami neighborhood north of downtown. Mariano Palenzuela, a Puerto Rico native, runs the restaurant with wife Melissa Chavez, and his mom Amarilis Fernandez steers the kitchen. Regardless of the day, they showcase comforting entrees like lechon asado, chicharrones de pollo, and bistec empanizado. Those all looked tempting when leaving the kitchen, but it was impossible to resist Friday’s special, Rabo Encendido ($8.25).

El Bajareque serves rabo encendido (stewed oxtails) in a tangy tomato based-broth with bright acidity that also included green olives, onions and peppers. The tender meat pulled easily from the tail’s bony chambers. Each Puerto Rican entree at El Bajareque comes with a choice of two sides. I selected yucca con mojo, yucca root slabs that bathe in tangy vinegar based mojo onions until tender. I also enjoyed arroz con gandules, yellow rice studded with earthy pigeon peas, which the chef punctuated with nubs of salted pork.