No stall at L.A.’s increasingly retooled Grand Central Market has generated more buzz than Eggslut, an open-air counter featuring the egg-centric creations of chef Alvin Cailan. At first, the Eggslut crew busted their asses just to get through each day’s bum rush. Now they’ve found a rhythm and added staff – including former Sticky Rice chef Johnny Lee – and are at the stage where they can expand the menu. One of my favorite additions is the Nita ($9), which used to appear on the Eggslut truck, and is now better than ever.
The Nita is, no surprise, a play on carnitas. However, instead of cooking every part of the pig in a copper cazo, submerged in bubbling pork fat, Cailan, Lee and crew braise pork shoulder in a deeply flavored liquid. They started with onions and added garlic, black peppercorns and pork jus. They top the juicy porcine results with tangy roasted tomatillo salsa, crumbled cotija – a savory Mexican cow’s milk cheese – and an over medium egg with an oozing, golden yolk. The bread is a toasted Veneto roll, which is basically soft, sturdy ciabatta.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.