The Breslin, an English-inspired bar and restaurant from chef April Bloomfield and business partner Ken Friedman, has become a sensation since it opened on the eastern end of the trendy Ace Hotel in fall 2009. In the interim, they’ve become known for dishes like the char-grilled lamb burger and grilled tongue sandwich, which apparently arrives with borscht. My recent visit to one of their moodily lit banquettes coincided with breakfast, so both of those tempting dishes will have to wait for another trip. In the meantime, their Full English Breakfast ($21) still made an impact.
It makes sense The Breslin would know what to do with pork. After all, pig statuettes are ubiquitous in the space; there’s even a yellow pig hanging by its tail above the pass to the open kitchen.
My breakfast consisted of a house-made pork sausage with a casing that oozed pig grease with the lightest tear from my knife blade. They also had chewy, salty strips of bacon that kind of reminded me of thin-cut corned beef. On the side were an impeccable pair of fried eggs, roasted button mushrooms and tomatoes with true intensity. The meal tasted good – with all that pig and residual grease – of course it would, but the plate still raised some questions.
After reporting my meal on Twitter, someone with more knowledge about proper English breakfasts questioned why the meal didn’t include toast, black pudding or beans. Toast would have come in handy with all that grease, and beans with pork fat were available as a side, but $21 was already more than enough money to pay for breakfast. In fact, with tax and tip, it’s more than I’d ever pay again for the same meal, but it tasted good at the time and lasted me hours. It was definitely a meal better suited for a farmer prior to working the fields than to me, prior to writing.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.