David Myers developed a reputation as an inventive chef with his anything-goes tasting menus at Sona, a fine-dining establishment on La Cienega’s Restaurant Row. Given his clout in the culinary community, Angelenos were curious to see what Myers would do for an encore. In 2006, he secured the Noura Cafe space, a prized location around the corner from Sona in a neighborhood that already housed high-quality restaurants Lucques and Bastide. There was talk he would partner with Chef Kazunori Nozawa, the so-called Studio City “sushi Nazi.” Instead, Nozawa intends to open a seafood restaurant called sugarFISH in Marina del Rey and Myers went with Comme Ca/strong>, a modern brasserie. Incredibly, Los Angeles didn’t previously have a standout brasserie. Thanks to David Myers and former Sona sous chef Michael David, that’s no longer the case.
The naturally lit brasserie features a black and white color palette, with a litany of chalkboards, including a chalkboard hallway scrawled with a cow, dolphins, quotes and a recipe for bouillabaisse.
Though Comme Ca hasn’t been open very long, they’ve already earned a lauded reputation for their cocktails. There were four cocktails on the menu, and they all sounded good, but I opted for Dealer’s Choice ($14).
After the meal, I spoke with another bartender, Julian Cox, who’s been with Comme Ca for three months. He previously bartended downtown, at Roy’s. He said the Comme Ca bar is making pre-Prohibition style cocktails. The goal is to make drinks as good as the food, “an art form.” If it’s not fresh, they don’t use it. They don’t buy grenadine; they make it fresh from pomegranates and add sweetener. He showed me bins of fresh raspberries, strawberries and mint.
Cox said jasmine and violet liqueurs go especially well with gin, helping to pick up the floral notes. An aficionado of Southern style sweet tea, I’m intimately familiar with simple syrup. Julian said that in summer, he makes a drink called an Ice Pick: vodka with iced tea and simple syrup. Good to know.
With limited brasserie experience, it’s unclear whether Comme Ca is a traditional example of the form, but there’s no doubt that Chefs Myers and David are producing flavorful French comfort food (and drinks) in an inviting setting.
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