Che Fico was a hit not long after opening. Pretty much from the moment Anderson Cooper Instagrammed his pizza, people were flocking to this Nopa restaurant. After all, the name Che Fico translates from Italian as “how cool.”

Talented former Eleven Madison Park Senior Sous Chef David Nayfeld previously popped up at Fifty Seven in the Downtown Los Angeles Arts District. He relocated to San Francisco to team on Che Fico with business partner Matt Brewer. This modern, bustling Italian restaurant resides on Divisadero Street. The airy second floor dining room houses exposed rafters and a wood-burning pizza oven named Loretta.

Nayfeld devotes an entire Che Fico menu section to Cucina Ebraica. According to the menu description, “Reflective of the Jewish-Italian tradition, these dishes represent Chef Nayfeld’s favorite peasant comfort foods.” Most dishes would be unimaginable outside the Roman Jewish Quarter. It was a treat to try Nayfeld’s takes closer to home.

Grilled Chopped Duck Liver ($13) was the best dish I tried from this section. Nayfeld beautifully balanced this offal preparation with sweet onion marmalata, crunchy purple daikon half moons, and sharp pickled onions. Pile each component on crispy ridged Roman matzo lined with white and black sesame seeds. Take a bite and get transported to Rome by way of California.