Bestia is an Italian restaurant from Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis that helped to jumpstart the DTLA Arts District dining scene. They may have meat hook chandeliers, make charcuterie in-house and serve cuts of protein like chicken gizzards and lamb neck, but Bestia also demonstrates skill with ingredients from the sea and soil. Calamari alla Plancha ($18) is a seafood-centric dish that helps symbolize their balanced approach.

Menashe starts with tender coils and tentacles of seared calamari plated with crunchy endive rafts, sweet Warren pear, crisp watercress, and earthy charred shiitake mushrooms. Chile oil contributes a hint of heat, and apple balsamic provides sweet tang.