Eddie Huang is probably best known for “Huang’s World,” his global travel show on Viceland, and for “Fresh Off The Boat,” the ABC sitcom co-starring Constance Wu and Randall Park that showrunner Nahnatchka Khan based on his memoir. This provocative food lover is also a seasoned restaurateur. He doesn’t just talk the talk. The East Coaster first teamed with friend Steven Lau, a fellow sneaker fiend, on a Taiwanese comfort food concept in New York City’s Greenwich Village called Baohaus in 2009. The duo later relocated to Los Angeles and opened Baohaus in Chinatown’s bustling Far East Plaza in 2017.

Their tiny Los Angeles restaurant with a bao focus resides next to Howlin’ Ray’s hot chicken destination and replaced Andy Ricker’s short-lived Pok Pok Phat Thai. The space currently features stainless steel counters, custom shoe collaborations in plastic boxes on a high shelf, and access to the popular plaza’s communal seating.

I ordered three different Baohaus steamed clamshell buns. Versions with spicy fried chicken breast and flaky fried whitefish both had their particular charms, but I enjoyed Chairman Bao® ($4.55) best. A fluffy bun cradled a meaty, fat-streaked slab of braised pork belly that co-starred punchy Haus relish, crushed peanuts, Taiwanese red sugar, and cilantro.