Manhattan Beach has been a culinary playground for chef David LeFevre and the Simms brothers. M.B. Post and Fishing With Dynamite are their most successful collaborations to date, but The Arthur J, their “Mad Men” style steakhouse, has been a sleeper hit. The Midcentury Modern establishment is best known for pristine steaks cooked on a white oak grill, but the kitchen offers so much more, including a rotating roster of nightly specials.
Wednesday only Veal Parmesan ($30) is a meaty beast and a relative bargain. Tender bone-in veal chop plated with crispy breading comes plated in a shallow pool of zesty homemade tomato sauce, broiled mozzarella cheese, and crispy basil leaves. Since I grew up on red sauce Italian food in New Jersey, I have a soft spot for dishes like this, especially when the preparation is so adept. LeFevre may not be Italian, but his veal Parmesan proves that he can capture the cuisine’s spirit.