Manhattan Beach has been a culinary playground for chef David LeFevre and the Simms brothers. Manhattan Beach Post and Fishing With Dynamite are their most successful collaborations to date. The Arthur J, their “Mad Men” style steakhouse, has been a sleeper hit. The Mid-century Modern establishment is best known for pristine steaks cooked on a white oak grill. The kitchen also offers so much more, including a rotating roster of nightly specials.

Wednesday only Veal Parmesan ($30) is a meaty beast and a relative bargain. Tender bone-in veal chop plated with crispy breading comes plated in a shallow pool of zesty homemade tomato sauce, broiled mozzarella cheese, and crispy basil leaves. Since I grew up on red sauce Italian food in New Jersey, I have a soft spot for dishes like this. Especially when the preparation is so adept. The veal Parmesan from Il Mulino in New York City was always on my wish list. I still haven’t made it to that Greenwich Village institution, but now feel a less pressing need since The Arthur J’s veal Parm is readily available. LeFevre may not be Italian, but The Arthur J veal Parmesan proves that he can capture the cuisine’s spirit.