Marc Rose and Med Abrous clearly know how to set a scene. The Spare Room is one of L.A.’s destination bars. Winsome is their recent foray into the food world. At their airy restaurant that opened in February at the base of an Echo Park apartment tower, chef Jeremy Strubel has assembled a roster of creative, photogenic dishes like potato rosti for breakfast.
According to a ChefSteps story on Pomme Rösti, “In Germanic Switzerland, rösti literally means “crisp and golden.” At Winsome, each crispy potato thatch ($13-15) comes with a pair of sunny-side-up eggs with bright yellow yolks and a trio of possible accompaniments. I enjoyed the version draped with smoked salmon and dressed with avocado, basil tahini, and fennel pollen. If you crave a more substantial start to the day, or just want to pretend it’s St. Patrick’s Day, invest in the version with Niman Ranch brisket corned beef, charred cabbage, and creamy house mustard. Still, my favorite take on potato rösti was vegetarian and captured Spring, with hearty Bloomsdale Spinach, asparagus, chunks of avocado, and basil tahini.