King’s Seafood has kept Water Grill relevant for over two decades. The marquee restaurant in the group’s portfolio has been on the ground floor of downtown’s Pacific Center since 1989, sharing the building with designers, law firms, and the Los Angeles Conservancy. However, even a respected restaurant that helped launch the careers of culinary high flyers like Michael Cimarusti and David LeFevre needs the occasional upgrade, which is what Water Grill received to start 2012.

On January 10, King’s Seafood Chief Operating Officer Jeff Goodman provided a tour of the (at the time) construction zone for media types. He said signing a new 20-year lease motivated a re-evaluation, adding “Every business needs to evolve from time to time.”

King’s Seafood enlisted Hatch Design Group to remold the space, which now features a central bar with support beams wrapped in subway tile and antique mirrors. The ceiling sports pressed tin and sundial chandeliers, the floors are herringbone oak, and the space has booths of both the Pullman and horseshoe varieties, plus high-tops by the windows and stools at the marble oyster bar, which carries more than 10 kinds daily.

Josh Levine, the new Director of Operations, worked with Sasha Petraske in New York City, and heads Water Grill’s bar program. He said cocktails will be “simple, clean, classic, with fresh juices” and craft spirits as needed. He expanded the beer program to include 10 taps, plus bottles. Glass fronted refrigerators feature three doors for white wine, one for red, and room for 1000 bottles total.

On January 25, Water Grill announced a new executive chef – British-born Damon Gordon – previously of the Jefferson Hotel, Damon Gordon’s Quarter Kitchen at The Ivy Hotel, Ono at the Hotel Gansevoort, and Mix. He now has a semi-open kitchen at his disposal, which Goodman said allows diners to grab “glimpses of the kitchen without being too intrusive to the dining experience.”

Water Grill retained classics their New England lobster roll, Maryland crab cake, and clam chowder, but installed 35+ new dishes and increased portions. Goodman said, “People are still going to spend what they spend at Water Grill, but they’re going to get a bit more for their money.”

The revamped menu includes whole Mediterranean loup de mer ceviche cured with lime, chile, olive oil, and Maldon sea salt.

Water Grill’s tanks contain Dungeness crab, shrimp and lobster, including 8-pound behemoths.

Wood-grilled Morro Bay swordfish comes with tomato fondue and caponata.

Fish and chips features cod in a golden crust, fried in soy oil, served with thrice fried Idaho russet potatoes. They also have sides like braised kale with yogurt and hazelnuts. Dishes like these fit with the Water Grill’s seasonal, seafood-centric paradigm, but once they move beyond the kitchen, it’s a new deal.