When Steve Samson starting focusing on Rossoblu, the new Bologna-style Italian restaurant he opened with wife/partner Dina in DTLA’s Fashion District, it was impossible for him to spend nearly as much time at their original restaurant: Sotto. Steve Samson is one of the most talented Italian chefs in Los Angeles, so this was no small absence. Combined with chef de cuisine Daniel Cutler’s departure to open Ronan on Melrose Avenue with wife Caitlin, Sotto’s kitchen had two big holes to fill. Samson promoted Craig Towe to chef de cuisine. At a recent dinner that celebrated the restaurant’s 7½ year anniversary, Chef Towe orchestrated several classic dishes and proved that Sotto is still going strong in Beverlywood.

Linguine alla Bottarga ($26) was a particularly good plate, featuring a carefully coiffed tower of house-made pasta that delivered good bite. Chef Towe’s team tossed the linguine with tangy lemon juice, spicy chile flakes, bright parsley, and crispy breadcrumbs and finished with umami-rich cured mullet roe that they grated before serving.