We had to break up the acidity somehow. Our night started at Beachwood BBQ in Seal Beach, which was featuring Portland’s Cascade Brewing on the Friday night of their epic Sour Fest, then we drove north to Beachwood’s Long Beach branch for more sour beer. In between, we had an opportunity to eat in an area of Long Beach that houses the largest population of Cambodian ex-pats in Southern California. Sophy Khut’s self-named restaurant resides just north of Cambodia Town. She hails from Battambang and still returns home occasionally to see family and source ingredients to help produce the bright, invigorating cuisine of Cambodia and adjacent Thailand.
Art and traditional Cambodian instruments line the walls of the sprawling space, which takes up nearly half a city block.
A number of options are recognizable as Thai, including curries, sate and noodle dishes. As it turns out, they had three frog dishes, but a pivotal page was missing from our menus, so we never would have known. Dave “The Ubergeek” Lieberman, an OC Weekly food writer with a flair for languages, was at the table with his family, along with erudite food (and beer) lover Gev Kazanchyan, and since we’re all fairly adventurous, we relied on the advice of our waiter. It was Lieberman’s fellow writer at the Weekly, Edwin Goei, who first alerted us to Sophy’s presence in Long Beach.
The murky dipping sauce of salt and pepper dusted lime juice lent the dish some good acidity, which seemed to be a recurring theme at Sophy’s. A bed of crisp lettuce, sliced tomatoes, cucumber, cilantro and onions completed the plate.
Carrot, chilies, sliced tomatoes, long string beans and crushed peanuts factored into the salad, along with a choice of salted crab or dried shrimp. Our tiny crab legs added salinity, but it was tough to get beyond the hard exoskeleton. We probably would have been better off with dried shrimp. Slices of raw cabbage added crunch and helped to tame the funk.
The sticky dish featured a flavor profile similar to pad Thai, along with a choice of meat, in our case lean pork. A lime squeeze and drizzle of red sweet and sour sauce added complexity.
It turned out to be ironic that we sought relief from the effect of sour beer at a restaurant with dishes that displayed so much acidity, but at least the flavors were bold and concentrated.
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