In January 2007, I ate the best bowl of ramen in my life in the Mitsuwa Marketplace food court, and for some inexplicable reason, it took 16 months to return. Santouka, a Japanese import, opened on December 12, 2006, in West LA, sharing space with Shiseido, Shonan wireless, and Sanuki Sandou, among other booths. All of the food vendors feature plasticized food bowls serving as the official menu, including Santouka. Don’t let kitsch like that dissuade you. This is real-deal ramen.

The Santouka booth is fairly low-key, with a white banners in Japanese, dark wood and what looks like a raft of bamboo. Order at the counter and wait for your number to be called.

The food court features wood tables, alternating dark and light, plus fish shaped communal tables and a view of the market’s checkout aisles.

My large bowl of Toroniku (special pork) Salt Ramen ($10.49) was well worth the dollar size upgrade. The broth is murky yellow and showered with white sesame seeds.

Other options include Salt Ramen, Chashu Pork Salt Ramen, Soy Sauce Ramen, Miso Ramen and Hot Miso Ramen (which is fire red). Each ramen is pairable with rice, capped with leeks, salmon roe, fermented soybeans or pork.

Toroniku ramen came with a plate of fat-rimmed pork slices, bamboo cuts, a springy white fish cake decorated with a pink spiral, wood ear mushrooms, chopped scallions and a singularly tart pickled plum. True to the name, the gritty broth was indeed salty, but sensational, especially after rich pork fat begins to melt into the soup.

Due to gas prices rising beyond their control, Santouka will be forced to raise prices on May 19, symbolic of the industry-wide trend. Considering how good the ramen tastes, Santouka could double their prices and I’d still go. And this time, it won’t take another 16 months.