At Pok Pok LA in Chinatown, chef-owner Andy Ricker preaches Thai authenticity, but still finds room on his menu to serve some Vietnamese dishes. Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, which Ricker made famous in Portland and New York City, and a version of Hanoi’s famed cha ca la vong, are both in full effect.

I understand why Ike’s Fish Sauce Wings made the cut. Pok Pok’s initial hire, Ich “Ike” Truong, hails from Vietnam and contributed to a recipe that mimics what Ricker experienced in Hanoi. Perhaps Ricker also fell for Cha Ca La Vong, Hanoi’s most famous dish, during his travels.

Regardless, Ricker’s approximation is pretty good, though he clearly doesn’t have access to snakehead fish in L.A., and doesn’t cook the fish tabletop over charcoal in a pool of butter, turmeric, dill, and spring onions. Still, we’re in L.A. and not Hanoi, and I enjoyed Cha Ca “La Vong” ($15) at Pok Pok LA quite a bit. Flaky fish is marinated in turmeric and sour rice, fried in turmeric oil with scallions and dill, and served in a bowl atop bouncy rice vermicelli with peanuts, mint, and cilantro, with pleasantly pungent mam nem (fermented fish sauce with pineapple) on the side.