It’s been awhile since I’ve been so excited about a drink. It took the united efforts of Gemma Matsuyama, Chris Chi (ex Bestia), Mavis J. Sanders (ex Blue Hill at Stone Barns), Qudoe Lee and Phil Moses to temporarily distract me from the restaurant beat. I found their grain-fueled food truck, Pico House, parked at jam-packed Culver City climbing gym Cliffs of Id.

I enjoyed my bowls of Robertson Short Rib and Crenshaw Meatballs. Ugly Fruit Drank was the concept that caught my attention. The Pico House team scours the farmers market for seconds, imperfect fruits with depreciated value. They transform the fruit into still or sparkling juice, featuring big chunks at the bottom of each Greenware cup. The fruit is based on whatever fruits they find. I enjoyed peach lemon. They’ve also made versions with grapes and blueberries. I really appreciate the idea of market-driven beverage that’s simultaneously flavorful and eco-friendly. I like Ugly Fruit Drank even more in practice.