The return of chef Nyesha Arrington to a Westside kitchen has been triumphant. At Wilshire in Santa Monica and Leona in Venice, she already proved to be one of L.A.’s leading practitioners of seasonal, globally-inspired food. As I learned during my first brunch at Native in the former home to Santa Monica Yacht Club, her cooking is better than ever.
On Saturday and Sunday mornings, Arrington serves some great takes on brunch classics, including pancakes, hash browns, and a killer breakfast burrito. Of course, no brunch is complete unless you order bacon, and their farmhouse bacon is stellar. She braises Daily’s bacon for three hours in chicken stock and mirepoix and presses it overnight so the meaty slabs are uniform. The bacon’s thick-cut, seasoned with rosemary and Maldon sea salt, beautifully char-grilled, and served on a curved wooden board. It’s hard to imagine any brunch that this cured meat couldn’t improve.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.
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