I’ve had many run-ins with the michelada, Mexico’s most popular beer cocktail. Nothing could have prepared me for the chabela from Mariscos El Cristalazo, Cristal Vargas’s catering company in the San Gabriel Valley. Street Gourmet LA founder Bill Esparza led us to an undisclosed SGV location to enjoy lunch on his birthday. While we didn’t quite drain the seas, plentiful seafood filled our table and chabela.

Cristal Vargas worked in a series of Mexican and Japanese seafood restaurants before setting out on her own. She showcases the flavors of Esquinapa, a coastal Sinaloan city sandwiched between Mazatlan and Nayarit. Seafood arrived in jumbo martini glasses, on plates, and in gargantuan steins. Each 32-ounce chabela ($10) os more or less an oceanic Big Gulp, but way better. Vargas starts with a beer choice. Esparza and I opted for Pacifico, though Corona and Bud Light are also options. Next comes a river of Clamato, a deluge of plump de-shelled clams, salt, pepper and a sprinkle of dried chile. Coarse sea salt lines the rim, along with four sizable shrimp, a slice of cucumber, and hot sauce. Celery stalks join the intoxicating liquid, along with a spoon to dredge the bottom of the glass, a straw, and plenty of ice to keep things cool throughout what will undoubtedly be a leisurely meal.