Stanton is an Orange County city that avoided a potent fate: nearly becoming Anaheim’s “sewage farm.” Since that pivotal moment in 1911, the city has moved up in the world, adding infrastructure, industry, and some fairly interesting restaurants. At Irrawaddy Taste of Burma, Banny Hong, wife Rosanna, and nephew Fred Phan have produced some of Southern California’s best Burmese food since March 2016.

The family’s strip mall space features colorful photos of Burmese life and parasol chandeliers above the bar. The restaurant name refers to a river in Myanmar that flows from the Himalayan mountain range in the north to the Indian Ocean to the south. Fong ran Sakura Sushi in Long Beach from 2003-2011, a good run to be sure, but he’s clearly found his calling with Irrawaddy. Childhood dishes from Myanmar include Own Noh Kauk Swear ($11). This coconut chicken soup is reminiscent of kao soi, but with thick, bouncy udon noodles and garnishes that distinguish the Burmese version from their southeastern neighbors: garlic, shallot, cilantro, and boiled egg. The broth contains coconut milk, but finds balance from earthy spice. I could have slurped this soup all night, had Irrawaddy not also worked wonders with two tea leaf dishes.