Interview: Miracle Mile Bitters founder Louis Anderman

Bitters Los Angeles

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Tell me how you collaborate with different bartenders around town.

I’m just interested in hearing their different flavor ideas. Whenever I do a new experiment, the first thing I do is start handing out sample bottles and say I want feedback on them. Others I ask the question, “What are you not seeing that you would like to see?”

What’s a recent example?

A recent example was the bitters at Sunny Spot, where Brian [Butler] described the flavor profile he wanted, something very anise forward that could be used in a few different drinks he described. Another example going a little bit further back, something that I didn’t intend to take to market, was the first batch of Forbidden Bitters, which is my Angostura style aromatic bitters. That was something I originally intended to be a one-off experiment using tonka beans, which were used in a lot of 19th and early 20th Century bitters, but are not restricted as a food additive by the FDA. Side note, I think from what I’ve read, they’re perfectly safe. Nutmeg and cinnamon are more toxic, it’s just one of these bad regulations that the government made 70 years ago based on redunk science. I did this batch as an experiment and gave them the cheeky name Forbidden Bitters because of the tonka beans, handed out a bunch of bottles, and then a week or so later started getting e-mails essentially saying, “Yeah, I need more of this.” I had to go back and redraw the recipe, coming up with a tonka bean substitute.

In terms of mentors, would you say you’ve had any? What’s helped guide the process?

I really can’t say that I’ve had any mentors on the bitter making side. I’ve been completely self-taught, but I do think there’s a wide circle of bartenders and professionals I’ve got to know, who have really been, not just a support system, but also inspiration. Some people who have supported me from the beginning, like the aforementioned Matt Wallace, Dave Kupchinsky at Eveleigh and Kiowa Bryan at Eveleigh. Mark Peel has been an absolute mensch since the first time I met him. Other guys I love and respect like Rich Andreoli and Mia Sarazen. Zahra Bates, watching her in action is like watching a Shaolin master at play. These people continue to inspire me and push me forward.

What’s your favorite part about working in the cocktail and spirit industry?

I absolutely love the people I’ve gotten to know, the passion and creativity, and I certainly can’t knock the perks. It’s been at least a year and a half since I paid a full bar bill and I love it when I meet someone from a supplier, and we decide to trade product. I send out some bottles of bitters, a week or so later, there’s a FedEx at my door with a case of booze. There used to be a time when I was very happy to get a premiere swag bag coffee mug. I think the perks now are a little bit better.

How would you describe your home bar set-up?

Messy. It’s probably a little deficient in some spirits I still need to learn a lot more about. Like I know very little about tequila and rum, and it’s exciting to see that there are so many new products in both categories coming to the market. Very gin centric. That’s usually my base spirit of choice.

Do you entertain and make cocktails for people?

Not as often as I probably should, but I do enjoy it. And when I do, I make it a special mission to convert people who say they hate gin, and I have yet to fail.

What’s your top selling bitters?

For a long time it was the chocolate chile, and now I would say it’s probably the Forbidden Bitters and the orange.

Why do you think?

The Forbidden Bitters are the most versatile in terms of base spirits. They’re just an all-around aromatic bitters that you can use like you would Angostura. The orange bitters are actually picking up a lot more for the on-premise clientele, because more local bars are starting to make them their house orange bitters, and it’s such a staple bitters that they order larger quantities than they might the others.

When you’re not making bitters or working on entertainment matters, what are some of your preferred places to drink, and what do you enjoy drinking?

I love the R&D bar at Harvard & Stone. There’s always going to be a surprise there. I think places like Bar Kitchen are amazing. I don’t make it out to 1886 nearly as much as I would like to, but I love traveling around and seeing what the different friends of the company are up to. Farmers market Sundays are always a good time.

If you could only drink one cocktail, what would be in your glass?

The death row cocktail. I’ll answer that in two ways. My usual go-to pre-dinner cocktail is a 3:1 martini, dash of orange bitters, olive and a lemon twist. But if I could only drink one more cocktail before passing this earth, probably a Sazerac, and if I could get some 19th Century Sazerac Cognac and pre-ban absinthe in there, I wouldn’t mind at all.

Who would you let make your final Sazerac?

Is it Chris McMillian? There’s a very famous New Orleans bartender who has a bunch of You Tube videos.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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