Ho Kee Cafe Pork with Preserved Vegetables

Chinese Food Los Angeles

Braised pork belly with preserved mustard greens may not be Cantonese, but still shines at Ho Kee Cafe.

The San Gabriel Valley has been trending toward Sichuan province in recent years, but you can still find plenty of representation from other parts of China. My friend Victor Tam, who visits family in Hong Kong each year, recently directed me Ho Kee Cafe, a Hong Kong-style restaurant with predominantly Cantonese food that opened in January 2017. Friends of my in-laws were in town, joined us at dinner, and said they recognized every photo of Hong Kong that the owners hung on white walls with red accents, which I considered a good sign.

Roast duck is certainly Ho Kee Cafe’s specialty, with juicy meat and caramelized, fat-rimmed skin, though I enjoyed many other items. When it comes to pork, Pork With Preserved Veg ($12.95) is the way to go. I’ve enjoyed this dish in Tainan, and the dish’s migratory path apparently spans China. Tender slabs of braised pork belly with striated layers are plated horizontally in a row. Sadly, preserved mustard greens packed no punch, though they’re designed to cut the pork’s richness. Even without that foil, this plate is still worth ordering. Just make sure to supplement with steamed white rice to help temper the flavor.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.


Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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