I never expected to find such a good tomato in December. Yes, California is famous for summertime tomatoes, but offerings can get wan in winter. Here’s Looking At You chef Jonathan Whitener reminded me of hothouse tomatoes, available year-round. He favors the Momotaro tomato, the bright red, sweet, and tangy hybrid that’s big in Japan.

I first started eating at Here’s Looking At You soon after Whitener and front of house partner Lien Ta opened their modern eclectic restaurant in Koreatown. Bold, well balanced dishes like the Momotaro Tomato ($16) make it clear that Chef Whitener is even further along with his cooking than he was in his Animal days. The Here’s Looking At You menu changes at least a little bit each day, but hopefully Whitener clings tight to this stunning tomato salad. Diced tomato that’s bright in every sense of the world benefitted from umami-rich bagna cauda, crunchy breadcrumbs, tangy creme fraiche folded with licorice-flavored anise hyssop, and lap cheong (sweet Chinese sausage). My wife and I gave serious thought to ordering a second Momotaro tomato plate, which would have been unprecedented. We instead decided to make due with the many other great Here’s Looking At You menu items.