To say that fried chicken is one of my favorite foods is an understatement. Every chance I get to try a new version, there’s pretty much never a red light. Just the opposite. Still, it took a trip to Wong Java House, Ade Kurniawan’s restaurant set amidst Alhambra auto body shops, to tussle with Indonesian ayam penyet for the first time. I’ve never had fried chicken like this before.

Ayam Penyet ($7.50) at Wong Java House features chicken that’s marinated in galangal, turmeric, lemongrass and candlenut. The bird bathes in those spices, becoming fragrant and deeply delicious inside and out. Un-battered chicken cooks in vegetable oil and arrives in a massive stone bowl on a bed of spicy sambal crafted from red jalapeños, Thai chiles, and dried shrimp. Better yet, the aforementioned spices join the fried chicken party in the form of a crisp, chewy thatch, which is powerfully flavorful. Cooling cucumber also nestles into the enormous bowl, providing crunchy, mild contrast. The chicken probably stayed in the fryer for a little too long, but considering the bird boasted such bold flavors, I didn’t mind. Wong Java House’s ayam penyet still proved to be one of the more unique fried chicken preparations in Los Angeles.