Nothing could have prepared me for the power of the Prime Pork Chop ($24), a work of porcine art that chef Brendan Collins prepares at Waterloo & City, a fine-tuned, oversized gastropub on Culver City’s Western fringe. Sure Collins found success at Melisse, Anisette and The Hall Courtyard Brasserie at Palihouse, but the Nottingham native is clearly most comfortable when riffing on the cuisine of his homeland, as evidenced by last Friday’s inspired dinner. The Prince charcuterie platter was a standout, but nothing on the carving board came close to the chop.
Chefs often overcook pork chops, but Collins’ thick-cut, pan-seared, boldly specimen was juicy all the way through, served in vanilla- and apple-tinged pan juices, plated on a raft of expertly cooked green beans and topped with a luxurious slab of black pudding. The dark loaf was caramelized at the edges, bound with pig fat and studded with congealed cubes of iron-rich hog’s blood, apples and onion. He finished the feat with chunky apple sauce and a single dehydrated apple chip. This chop was further proof that Homer Simpson was correct in calling the pig a “magical animal.”
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.