Heirloom LA is a multi-faceted, market-driven company from Matt Poley and Tara Maxey. The couple hosted a dinner celebrating Cook Pigs Ranch behind their Glassell Park headquarters. The dinner was originally supposed to be in The Salon, but they instead carved out a larger footprint out back. Guests sat at communal tables under Edison bulb strings. Upraised herb and vegetable beds and a living passion fruit wall along the fence provided atmosphere.

Krystina and Mike Cook run Cook Pigs Ranch with family in Julian, the famed apple hamlet. The couple was front and center and explained what distinguishes their pigs. Their ranch’s elevation is nearly 5,000 feet high, close to Spain’s famed pork hotbed, Iberico. That helps to bolster prized marbling and fat caps. They raise 9 different heritage breed pigs for about 18 months, including KuneKune, Duroc, Great White, and Tamworth. Commercial farming normally takes six months. The Cooks feed pigs acorns, apples, macadamia nuts and masa. Some animals grow to a whopping 2,000 pounds.

The pork I enjoyed at Heirloom LA wasn’t from a pig nearly that big. The premium meat factored into plates titled Sausage Heaven, Pork ‘n Beans, and Crispy Pork Belly, all listed on a pig-shaped blackboard menu. We passed family-style plates and drained wine bottles with custom labels. All told, my favorite bites were Sausage Heaven.

Poley, culinary lieutenant Tad Weyland, and the crew tossed ricotta cavatelli with big roasted Cook Pigs Ranch sausage chunks crafted with belly and shoulder meat. Luscious jus coated the pasta. Fennel and garlic heightened the flavor. Hearty rapini, chilies, crème fraîche and scallions completed the flavor and textural balance. The heartfelt energy is what I’ll most remember most about the evening, though I’ll continue to crave that pasta canoe.

Note: Heirloom LA hosts special events approximately every 6 weeks. In September, they’re working with Poketo to transform their back space into a Korean and Thai street market. October features Chef Gen of Sushi Yuzu. Check Instagram and their website for announcements and key details.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.