The cuisine of Sinaloa is alive and well in South Gate, and perhaps the leading pork practitioner in the South L.A. neighborhood is Maria Martinez, who opened Gumacus more than seven years ago, naming the restaurant for three cities from her youth: Gu (Guamuchil), Ma (Mazatlan) and Cu (Culiacan) all situated in western Mexican state of S (Sinaloa). A mural on the north wall represents churches from each of those cities.
Porcine options include enchiladas del suelo (filled with chorizo), Yucatan-derivative cochinita pibil and the dish that I’ll remember best: Chilorio Natural ($7.99). Pork shoulder is seasoned with ingredients like dried chilies and cumin that contribute to its dazzling fire red color. Manteca (lard) also factors into the pork, which is shredded and griddled until the outer bits achieve a crunchy floss-like consistency while the majority of the meat remains juicy. Folded into a thick housemade corn tortilla, chilorio makes a memorable taco.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.