West Covina’s Hong Kong Plaza has yielded several interesting eating options, including a branch of the well-regarded Penang Malaysian restaurant chain, Janty Noodle, and the dearly departed Satay Fong. Considering L.A.’s craze for ramen, it seemed inevitable that even the eastern San Gabriel Valley would feel the effects. A Tasting Table newsletter alerted us to the opening and we made sure to include Fujin in our Friday night SGV sweep.

The restaurant’s owners named Fujin Ramen for the god of wind, and planted a bunch of fun children’s toys along the countertop. We sat in front of a tiny stuffed pig. Promising.

Our server suggested Miso Ramen ($8.70), featuring a broth made from pork head, pork knuckle bone, pork feet, chicken bone plus “ocean product” like clams, “boiled all day long” with “two kinds of regional miso pastes and spices.” The bowl was definitely a flavor bomb, with fat rimmed “toro chashu and pieces of belly as default,” firm egg noodles, wood ear mushrooms, thick cut bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, scallions, and broth so thick with protein it formed a film. They apparently couldn’t contain all the flavor in the bowl, since the ramen came with three condiments: pungent, fresh-chopped garlic, kara-miso paste to “spice up” and nira kimchi (flat chives). They also offer kotteri, but for once, we didn’t feel the need for additional back fat.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.