Affable pitmaster Kevin Bludso learned to smoke meat at his grandmother’s roadside stand in Corsicana, Texas. At Bludso’s in Compton, the former Corrections Officer utilizes four smokers (including Grandma’s) to produce a variation of what he learned in northeast Texas. He smokes pork spareribs for four hours with red oak until they form a lacquered crust, then douses the tender ribs ($11 per dinner) with spicy, mild or mixed sauce. Opt for spicy, which is just hot enough to leave a lasting impression on your lips. Bludso’s Dinner entitles you to two sides, including seven-cheese mac & cheese or onion-flecked collard greens. Better yet: include the ribs in a combo plate. The more meat the merrier.

Whether you grab-and-go or sit on a worn stool to devour Bludso’s ribs, keep wet wipes handy. Things are bound to get messy.

Bludso may soon score another Dose of Vitamin P, since he’s about to debut house-made pork links.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.