Monkey bread is the buttery, pull apart Franken-bread of the food world, with fluffy dough balls frequently fused together with sugar and cinnamon. At Corridor, the glass and steel restaurant from Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group at the gateway to San Francisco’s Hayes Valley, you’ll find savory monkey bread that breaks rules, but works really well.

The modern comfort food spot from the people who brought you Stones Throw, Fat Angel, and Trestle touts a big bar with high-top tables and a tucked away upstairs dining room.

I enjoyed a fun riff on corn on the cob and my roast chicken, but will remember this meal for Monkey Bread ($6). This crusty, buttery version was brushed with chive oil, held together with molten cheddar cheese, and served with basil aioli. If this level of imagination extends to more dishes on future visits, Corridor should do well at a key San Francisco crossroads.