Monkey bread is the buttery, pull apart Franken-bread of the food world. Fluffy dough balls frequently fuse together with sugar and cinnamon. Corridor is the glass and steel restaurant from Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group in San Francisco. Here, you’ll find savory monkey bread that breaks rules, but works really well.

The modern comfort food spot from the people who brought you Stones Throw, Fat Angel, and Trestle resides at the gateway to Hayes Valley. The space touts a big bar with high-top tables and an upstairs dining room.

I enjoyed a fun riff on corn on the cob and my roast chicken. However, I will remember this meal for Monkey Bread ($6). They brushed this crusty, buttery version with chive oil, held it together with molten cheddar cheese, and served with basil aioli. If this level of imagination extends to more dishes on future visits, Corridor should do well at a key San Francisco crossroads.