“The greatest oak was once a tiny nut that held its ground.” That saying lines the stairway wall inside The Charter Oak, a terrific seasonal wood-fired restaurant from Meadowood executive chef Christopher Kostow and fine dining business partner Nathaniel Dorn that features chef de cuisine Katianna Hong’s more approachable wood-fired cooking.
The Charter Oak resides on The Charter Oak Avenue in a stone building that used to house Tre Vigne, the restaurant that unleashed Michael Chiarello on the Bay Area. The restaurant’s current incarnation features twin lion statues framing the entrance, a dining room with high ceiling and brick walls, and a central hearth that draws eyes and fuels the menu. Every dish was soulful and satisfying. I particularly enjoyed Roasted Pork Shoulder ($28). Luscious spices of fat-streaked, seared pork co-starred sweet winter squash, spiced molasses, hearty greens, and crunchy, nutty pumpkin seeds.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.