It feels like farmers market graduates Neil Strawder and wife Phyllis are attempting to smoke out Long Beach, and not in a Snoop Dogg way. Bigmista and his partner in ‘cue now run Bigmista’s Barbecue & Sammich Shop and Bigmista’s Morning Wood, both worth visiting.

Meats smoked with pecan wood and mojo bricks are available by weight, in sammiches, bowls, and as part of BAPOM: Big Ass Piles of Meat. Spare Ribs ($14 per pound) were Bigmista’s latest triumph. Bigmista’s Barbecue & Sammich Shop chills and rubs the ribs with spices like salt, pepper, cayenne, garlic powder, chile powder, sugar and cinnamon. They’re smoked for 3.5 to 4 hours, resulting in rosy meat and winning outer rings. The counterman gave me a choice of sauce: regular or spicy (“hot enough to make your lips tingle but not blow your head off”). Spicy is clearly the best choice at Bigmista’s Barbecue & Sammich Shop, where flavor is best left in high gear.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.