With the first annual dineL.A. Restaurant Week winding down, I opted for one final lunch at All’ Angelo, the highly lauded Italian restaurant that debuted in 2007.
Last year, long-time friends and fellow Italians Stefano Ongaro and Mirko Paderno delivered All’ Angelo to a stretch of Melrose that was previously better known for quirky shops than quality restaurants. Thanks to All’ Angelo, Osteria Mozza to the east and Table 8 to the west, Melrose is no longer a culinary wasteland. Ongaro runs the front of the house and Chef Paderno’s domain is the kitchen. The duo worked together at Valentino. Paderno has also enjoyed stints at Dolce, Drago, and the short-lived Bridge.
The décor is Spartan, featuring banquettes up front, tables in the middle and a back bar hosting a Cuvinet system, which dispenses 25 glasses of temperature controlled wine. Glass lamps and sconces softly light the restaurant.
As a warm-up, a server delivered two slices of crusty Italian bread with a dish of olive oil.
The hostess informed me that a woman named Monica makes the desserts. Monica clearly has some serious skills.
As it turned out, there was no need to rush to All’ Angelo during Restaurant Week, since they normally offer a three-course business lunch for the same $22 price, but I’m happy I did.