Zak Stern, the impressively bearded chef-owner Zak the Baker in Miami’s Wynwood neighborhood, clearly knows how to draw a crowd. The humble bakery-cafe he runs with wife Batsheva Wulfsohn is hyper popular, with lines out the door to gobble up pastries from the reclaimed wood counter and to snag dishes from the butcher paper menu.

I can appreciate the joys of creative toasts on crusty slabs of house-baked bread, but the most memorable dish from my entire trip to Miami involved Zak the Baker’s Latke ($9). This burger-sized potato cake was crusty on the outside, buttery and almost creamy inside. Each order comes draped with a savory slab of country-smoked tuna, a fried egg, and tarragon sauce that seems to riff on chimichurri, a herbaceous hat tip to Latin-American surroundings.