“You’re so square. Baby, I don’t care.” Elvis Presley famously sang about an un-cool girlfriend he couldn’t ignore, and even though they don’t comfort to roll stereotypes, I’d still highly recommend the square Nem Ran Cua Be at Ha Noi Avenue in Little Saigon.

Nem Ran Cua Be ($7), the crispy square Ha Noi style rolls packed with peppery glass noodles, wood ear mushrooms, crab meat and bright orange crab roe were a major highlight at this six-year-old Vietnamese restaurant from the original owner of nearby Hanoi. Just wrap a piece of blistered, deep-fried wrapper with lettuce, mint and Thai purple basil, dip the juicy results in fish sauce, and repeat.

If the King can forgive his baby for not liking “hotrod racin’” or “crazy music,” I can forgive Ha Noi Avenue’s egg rolls for taking a surprising shape.