Tratto Meyer Lemon Pappardelle

Italian Food Phoenix

Tratto is the latest Phoenix restaurant from Bianco Group, located in Town & Country strip mall next to the second Pizzeria Bianco. The shabby chic space features worn wood, white walls and tablecloths, an open kitchen with marble counter, a small patio, and still life paintings of from Bianco’s father Leonard depicting food and a representative chair.

Executive chef Anthony Andiario worked at Pizzeria Bianco for one year before opening Tratto. He gets Bianco’s blessing on all dishes that make the ever-changing menu. As you can tell from his popular Instagram feed, he’s got serious skills. Depending on the day, you might find beet caramelle with brown butter and poppy seeds, gargati with slow cooked meat ragu and pecorino, or fusi Istriani with Guinea Hen ragu, which all jump off the screen.

During my dinner, Andiario prepared two Primi, which is the category that encapsulates their pasta dishes. Meyer Lemon Pappardelle ($22) proved to be the best pasta dish I’d had all year, featuring thin sheets with jagged edges tossed with rosy crumbled lamb sausage, rapini, sliced garlic cloves, and more than a little butter, which didn’t bother me one bit.

Tratto translates from Italian as the start of a line or journey, and I’d be glad to walk that culinary path any night. Maybe Bianco will bring Andiario to L.A. when he expands in 2017.

Address: 4743 N 20th Street, Phoenix, AZ 85016

Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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