Pizzeria Bianco founder Chris Bianco has become a culinary statesman for Phoenix. The Bronx native has already made an indelible mark on the local food culture with his destination pizzeria. He later added Pane Bianco, which serves stellar sandwiches and focaccia. The Tratto is his latest restaurant, next door to a Pizzeria Bianco outpost in Phoenix’s Town & Country Shopping Center. The seasonally inspired menu at Tratto simultaneously demonstrates impressive focus and grand ambitions. Three different menu categories each feature two to four entries each night, including salads, house-made pasta, and rarely seen farinata. Anthony Andiario helms the open kitchen on a nightly basis, and to his left, Blaise Faber presides over the bar.

Faber showcases Italian flavors, with a large amari selection, chamomile infused grappa, olive oil washed gin, and slow-yield jars of limoncello and buddhacello made with whole Buddha’s hand. I would have gladly sipped any of those beverages after dinner, but opted for Italian Eggnog ($11). Instead of using a spirit like brandy bourbon, Faber opted for Grappa and Marsala, contributing brightness to a frothy drink that also includes egg and cream. Faber finished this nog with fresh grated nutmeg and served it in a teacup, which was a nice touch.