Tokyo is an exciting, relentless metropolis that can leave travelers exhausted after battling bustling streets and trains that sometimes double as sardine cans. Take much-needed breathers and recharge with some caffeine in the city’s system of side street roasteries and cafes. Learn about 13 of my favorite places to drink good coffee in Tokyo, with considerable help from Tokyo native (and culinary expert) Tomo Kurokawa, based on my 2016 and 2019 trips.

Numbers on the map correspond to listings below and appear in alphabetical order instead of order of preference.

4/4 Seasons lives up to their name with seasonal coffee and fruit syrup sodas like apple cinnamon.

1. 4/4 Seasons Coffee

4/4 Seasons Coffee, aka All Seasons Coffee, has been a Shinjuku coffee destination since 2015. The small corner cafe features floral flourishes, including potted plants and succulents on wood counters and tables, and for fall, flowers and strings of paper flags. Their coffee program touts a two-group Synesso espresso machine, pourover bar, house roasted coffee, and guest beans from roasters like Berlin’s Five Elephants. I enjoyed a cup of Kenya pourover, which is available hot or iced. House-made fruit syrup for fall was crafted with apple and cinnamon, available either hot or in cold soda.

MUST ORDER: Fruit Syrup, Pourover Coffee

About Life provides a beautiful window into Tokyo coffee culture on a Shibuya side street.

2. About Life Coffee Brewers

About Life Coffee Brewers is a dark grey and cinder block stall that’s been on a Shibuya side street since 2014. The small space contains a tiny counter, tile walls, and an interior that’s just big enough for one guest to turn around. They brew black, white and filter coffees using a two-group La Marzocco espresso machine, pourover bar, and beans from Switch, Onimbus, and Amameria. Every drink comes in paper cups except for espresso and Americano. My drip coffee showcased a fully-washed Honduras El Milagrito coffee from Santa Barbara that was tasty and smooth, and a bit tangy.

MUST ORDER: Drip Coffee

Baristas sprinkle “coffee dust” on their signature ginger bear cappuccino.

3. Bear Pond Espresso

Katsuyuki “Katsu” Tanaka founded Bear Pond Espresso in the sleepy neighborhood of Shimokitazawa amidst fashionable clothing stores. The glass-fronted space features a peaked roof with exposed beams strung with lights, bench seating, and a reclaimed wood counter. A two-group white La Marzocco espresso machine reads “Love Me” in red drip paint. My flavorful Ginger Bear Cappuccino incorporated ginger, Flower Child espresso, steamed milk, and “coffee dust.”

MUST ORDER: Ginger Bear Cappuccino

Wataru Shiraishi pairs Japanese lattes with jazz on a Ginza side street.

4. Bongen Coffee

On a side street east of Ginza’s consumer madness, Yokohama native Wataru Shiraishi runs a bucolic coffee sanctuary complete with bonsai tree and matching logo. The tiny shop dates to 2018 and specializes in “Japanese lattes” set to a jazz soundtrack. A white two-group La Marzocco espresso machine and Brazilian beans that Shiraishi roasts himself fuel beverages like iced Matcha Latte + Espresso and Amazake Soy Latte + Espresso made with nutty soy milk and sweet, pulpy fermented rice drink. Bongen serves more basic drinks, including a potent, but satisfying double espresso. Their small snack menu includes a raisin sandwich, which seems to be a neighborhood favorite, co-starring cookies and butter cream.

MUST ORDER: Amazake Soy Latte + Espresso, Matcha Latte + Espresso, Raisin Sandwich

Omelet sandwiches and coffee both make Camelback a destination.

5. Camelback Sandwich & Espresso

“Who’s back? Camelback!” L.A. sports personality Petros Papadakis always uses that line when describing the spring training home for the Los Angeles Dodgers, Arizona’s Camelback Ranch. A fun time, to be sure, but give me Camelback Sandwich & Espresso instead. This coffee bar has been open since 2014 on a Yoyogi side street. The tiny glass-fronted cafe has only two wood benches, a brick fronted bar, and camel and desert-themed watercolors. Hayato Naruse (sandwiches) and Kei Suzuki (coffee) are childhood friends from Tokyo. Sandwiches are served on three different baguettes from three different bakeries. I was blown away by the sandwich with a soft omelet slab on a supple baguette with butter and mustard. Simple perfection. Their camel black, their take on an Americano, was also impeccable.

MUST ORDER: Camel Black, Egg Omelet Sandwich

Eiji Dobashi is connected to other prominent Tokyo coffee brands and brings caffeinated flair to Counterpart.

6. Counterpart Coffee Gallery

Eiji Dobashi has run Counterpart Coffee Gallery in Shinjuku since 2015. He’s connected to Glitch Coffee and roasts beans at Jinbocho Station. This glass-fronted cafe occupies three stories, including a ground floor counter with street views and a painting of a horse running through a ring of coffee plants with ripe cherries. Counterpart’s bar touts a two-group La Marzocco espresso machine and glass cones for pourover coffee. I enjoyed my cup of Ethiopia Gelena Abaya Washed.

MUST ORDER: Pourover Coffee

Fuglen Coffee brings Scandinavian style to their cafe near Yoyogi Park.

7. Fuglen Coffee Roasters

Fuglen Coffee Roasters is a Nordic style coffee bar across from Yoyogi Park in Yoyogi Uwhara. The company dates to 1963 in Norway. Very cool vintage design includes “Mad Men” era records, wood counters, tables and shelves. Their coffee program is quite modern, with a sleek two-group Slayer with wood finish. Aeropress and Kalita Wave are Fuglen’s other brewing methods. I was impressed with my cappuccino’s heart design and flavorful Chelelectu espresso from Ethiopia.

MUST ORDER: Cappuccino

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