Smitty’s Market: Black Walls and Butcher Paper in Lockhart

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Courthouse Texas

The historic Caldwell County Courthouse dates to 1894 on the town square.

In a state where county courthouses tend to be spectacular, this German-style courthouse on the Lockhart square was still something special. Still, when I think of Lockhart, I think of barbecue. Smitty’s Market was the first stop on our three-restaurant tour.

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Smitty’s Market took over Kreuz Market’s old location after a rent dispute forced the previous tenant to relocate down the street after 99 years.

Barbecue Texas

Walls surrounding the smokers are black. This isn’t a surprise, since the room has endured over 100 years of being perpetually pelted by smoke, dating back to the beginning of the Kreuz stay. Smitty’s menu hadn’t been up for long, but it was also yellowed from smoke. Whatever happened to ventilation?

Barbecue Texas

The high tin-ceilinged dining hall featured enormous picnic tables and old-fashioned signs, a bowlful of fresh avocados and a well-stocked freezer of Blue Bell ice cream.

Barbecue Texas

A three-way combo of brisket, sausage link, and pork chop arrived on butcher paper.

There were no forks, just knives. It’s pretty common to eat ‘cut with just your hands in central Texas. The meats were all incredibly greasy. It didn’t take long for the grease to bleed through the butcher paper onto the picnic table. Still, with grease comes flavor, and there were certainly some excellent bites of meat, especially of the big chop, but overall, it was too greasy for me.


Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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