“This donut is everything!” “This pizza is everything!” “This burger is everything!” That’s got to be the dumbest statement making the rounds on social media at the moment, even outranking “on fleek.” However, at Saint Martha in Koreatown, chef Nick Erven’s churros are actually everything, in a literal sense. Meaning, they’re supple and savory and coated in spices typically associated with the everything bagel. Those seeds and spices can vary, but in this case, Chef Erven opted for poppy seeds, sesame seeds and onion powder. Other versions of “everything” also sport caraway seeds, garlic, salt and pepper, but I digress.

I recently showcased The Best of Everything in a niche Food GPS guide, and these churros definitely would have made the cut had I tried them prior to publication. Saint Martha riffs even more on the bagel and lox theme by serving their churros with silky juniper cured salmon, which cooks ever so gently in a warm bath for 50 minutes before joining the aforementioned churros. A smear of tangy smoked goat cheese, tart dill pickles and fresh dill further flip the script on an iconic sweet treat that originated in Spain. This creative plate is my kind of “everything.”