“This donut is everything!” “This pizza is everything!” “This burger is everything!” That’s got to be the dumbest statement making the rounds on social meda at the moment, even outranking “on fleek.” However, at Saint Martha in Koreatown, chef Nick Erven’s churros are actually everything. Meaning, they’re supple and savory and coated in spices typically associated with the everything bagel, specifically poppy seeds, sesame seeds and onion powder, though other versions of “everything” also sport caraway seeds, garlic, salt and pepper.
I recently showcased The Best of Everything on Food GPS, and these churros definitely would have made the cut had I tried them earlier. Saint Martha riffs even more on the bagels and lox theme by serving juniper cured salmon, which cooks ever so gently in a warm bath for 50 minutes before joining the aforementioned churros, a shmear of tangy smoked goat cheese, tart dill pickles and fresh dill. This dish is my kind of “everything.”