Pat Brink’s restaurant Pat’s Kountry Kitchen dates to 1973 and has become a southern Connecticut institution.

A gigantic teddy bear greets diners at the door in a dress and Santa hat.

The restaurant could easily be called “Pat’s Kountry Kitschen.” I was happy to see that two of my patron saints, Jane and Michael Stern, were immortalized (again) on the wall near the entrance; their Taste of America column from Wednesday, October 15, 1986, profiles Pat’s and even includes the famous Quahog hash recipe.

A fireplace in the dining room is littered with a pile of face-down teddy bears.

The teddy bear pile-on is cute but disturbing, almost like a mass grave. I was particularly bothered by the panda crammed face first in the hole in the wall.

A funny sign over the counter reads, “Everyone brings happiness here. Some by coming, some by leaving.” I can only guess at how I brought happiness to Pat’s.

I bypassed the famed Quahog hash; I’ve been burned (and ridiculed) too many times because I ordered seafood at breakfast.

Red flannel hash ($6.99) incorporated corned beef, pastrami, onions and potatoes, topped with two over-hard eggs and served with a toasted, buttered English muffin.

The hash, eggs and buttery English muffin made for a good breakfast sandwich. The hash developed a nice crust on the grill, but retained a silky interior.

Allison ordered flavorful cinnamon-tinged Texas swirl French toast with crispy bacon strips.

Lindsay ordered a vegetable omelette with roasted potatoes.

I was happy to discover that such a kitschy restaurant could deliver such a good breakfast. I’m convinced that their limited menu helps their cause. Pat’s Kountry Kitchen doesn’t prepare many dishes, but the ones they do make, they make well.