Even in the internet and social media age, it’s still possible for restaurateurs to maintain a relatively low profile. Some restaurants simply cater to their local communities and survive (or thrive) without achieving destination status. Pacific Kosher Express in Woodland Hills marks the third link in a growing local chain for chef-owner Moran Ajrosh. She originally hails from southern Israel and already found success in North Hollywood. Pacific Kosher Restaurant primarily serves pizza and sandwiches. Pacific Kosher Grill maintains a meat focus. To end 2017, she added Pacific Kosher Express, a hybrid concept with no dairy that incorporates two types of fish: salmon and tilapia.

Pacific Kosher Express is a tiny six-table restaurant. Ajrosh recreates a Pacific Kosher Restaurant hit: Malawach Roll ($13.99). She stuffs flaky layers of Yemeni-style puff pastry with green olives, white button mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, corn, hard-boiled egg and melted mozzarella. Each plate comes with grated tomato dip, pickled cucumbers, briny green olives, and nutty tahini. The accompaniments help to balance each rich, buttery packet. It’s possible to eat malawach rolls by hand, but I’d say this dish calls for a knife and fork.