Advice from a local expert once again paid dividends as Ryan Stern, Managing Director of Foodbuzz, led us to Naked Lunch, an inspired market-driven sandwich shop that occupies the southeast corner of Enrico’s from Tuesday through Saturday. Check that, Naked Lunch occupies 504 Broadway through the end of lunch, at which point the proprietors cede the North Beach space back to Enrico’s in time for dinner.
The menu changes daily and appears on a blackboard. We ordered almost every option available.
We managed to score the first and last foie sandwich of the day, which came on Acme’s rustic baguette. The warm bread cradled the rich, creamy slab of house-made torchon, a juicy slice of heirloom tomato, crisp butter lettuce and a tiny hit of black truffle salt. I enjoyed the sandwich, but had an issue with the texture of the prosciutto, which was thick cut, fairly chewy and came across as more raw than cured.
More crusty Acme baguette offered just the right amount of give and contained sweet, juicy peaches, a judicious garlic aioli application, a mizuna thatch and two types of pig, thick slabs of smoky bacon and rosy tenderloin, which Begg marinated and cooked before carving some especially juicy slices.
Tender, smoky eggplant slices joined a generous helping of tangy goat cheese, sweet onions, heirloom tomato, thyme and more mizuna on Acme’s green onion slab (aka focaccia).
Apparently Naked Lunch is just the beginning for Maxey and Begg. Maxey said they’re looking to sign a lease on a space in SoMa to serve San Sebastian style tapas until 2 AM. If and when that happens, count me in for more of their bold food, fun vibe and ingratiating service.